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<title>Fredric Cross</title>
<link>http://www.alexbealer.org</link>
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<pubDate>Wed, 29 Apr 2026 06:19:34 -0400</pubDate>
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<title> AdminAlex</title>
<description><![CDATA[A “new twist” from Wayne Martens………<br />
Matt and Skyler were at the shop working on a Boy Scout Project.  I always like to send visitors home with a Friedricks cross, preferably made by them.  Skyler made his the traditional way, but Matt did his with a twist.  The outcome was this special looking cross.  Today’s young people are such a gift.  Just when we think we are passing our experience and knowledge on to them, they show us that we are just beginning to learn ourselves.<br />
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<pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/page.php?id=98#c]]></link>
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<title> hotFe2</title>
<description><![CDATA[I must have done something wrong-the attachments won't open-but should be there without having to open.. also the total length is wrong since the cuts overlap. I couldn't remember the exact measurements. total of 8 1/2 inches probably is good instead of 9&quot;.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/page.php?id=98#c]]></link>
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<title>Original message</title>
<description><![CDATA[I wanted to give crosses for Christmas to some relatives and <br />
decided to make Fredric’s crosses.  Nothing is of my design,<br />
just using techniques that are years old. I started with ¾ inch<br />
square stock approximately 9 inches in length. You have to <br />
start at one end  cutting with hack saw or band saw down the<br />
middle approx 3 ½ inches. Then, from the other end and ¼<br />
turn, start cutting down the center approx 5 1/2 inches. The cuts <br />
have to overlap and the more overlap the larger the opening<br />
will be. See figure 1<br />
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I found that leaving the head or top part of the cross the same<br />
length makes it easier to make the tab for the screw hole to <br />
hold the cross to the wall. See final photo for tab detail.<br />
Opening or unfolding the cross is much harder using this size<br />
bar that smaller stock causing me to have to reheat more that<br />
once. Just needs to be heated evenly where the cuts overlap.<br />
As it is getting hot, use a screwdriver or similar tool to start <br />
unfolding it, the more you can spread the cuts, the better.<br />
 After it was a cross, I then determined what length the <br />
top should be, then using a butcher I cut down 2/3 ‘s from the<br />
front to the back. Then drew that area out to 1/3  and fullered<br />
it to form the tab. See figure 2 and 3.<br />
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<a href="http://www.alexbealer.org/./datas/users/cb1_004_0.jpg"><img src="http://www.alexbealer.org/./datas/users/cb1_004_0.jpg" alt="" class="scale" /></a><br />
<br />
After that, I used a small ball pein to put texture on the front<br />
surface with some on the sides. I used an angle grinder with<br />
wire brush to clean everything up and applied several coats of<br />
clear lacquer.<br />
I did make one that had 2 drawn out tapers on the arms and top.<br />
That was achieved by having them about ¾ inch or more longer<br />
then splitting them about an inch down the middle. Then drew <br />
them out and scrolled them. See figure 4 and 5.<br />
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<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jan 2011 15:52:00 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/page.php?id=98]]></link>
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