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<title>Blacksmithing Questions</title>
<link>http://www.alexbealer.org</link>
<description>Ask a fellow blacksmith.....</description>
<generator>Cotonti</generator>
<pubDate>Mon, 04 May 2026 05:54:59 -0400</pubDate>
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<title>cal - Green Coal Classes</title>
<description><![CDATA[The term 'Green Coal' comes from the color of the smoke that comes from the coal when you first start the forge.  Before the flames actually get going the coal puts out a dense greenish smoke.  In this casa it refers to students that have little or no experience with blacksmithing and thus are green.  Of course there is no slight intended because we were all green at this at one time.<br /><br /><b>Added 1 minute later:</b><br /><br />We will have a number of forges going.  Each will be staffed by volunteers that will give lessons to the public.  Each lesson is about an hour.]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 12:22:13 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1097#1097]]></link>
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<title>Dietrich Hoecht - Green Coal Classes</title>
<description><![CDATA[Well, the possibilities are endless. Green coal is what you look up as a greenhorn and need classes, or may be glasses. Then, there is coal out of Greenland. Actually, I only know they get coal out of Svalbard, which is North of Iceland. Now, if you have a coal seam exposed to the atmosphere, there may be some mosses attached. Nice green. Actually, there is brown coal or also called lignite. The developmental intermediate between bog and anthracite.<br />
<br />
I am truly green to this subject and don't know about green coal classes either. Sorry for making fun about it, but this just asks for some nonsense feedback.<br />
<br />
Dietrich]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 12:15:17 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1096#1096]]></link>
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<item>
<title>BlueLou356 - Green Coal Classes</title>
<description><![CDATA[What is a green coal class?]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 05:37:07 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1095#1095]]></link>
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<title>lindahr - Help assembling a Klutch 52 inch foot shear</title>
<description><![CDATA[Hi all,<br />
<br />
I recently bought a Klutch 52 inch foot shear and it came partially assembled.  The manual does not give directions to assemble, only a tiny blow-up parts diagram.  What needs to be done is attaching the foot pedal, attaching some guides and stops, and adjusting and testing it.  If anyone has experience putting one of these together I would love to hear from you.  I'm willing to pay since it makes no sense to have it sitting here mocking me after I paid so much for it.  Or we can talk about trading out use of some of my equipment for the assembly.  I know this will be easy for some of you, but for me, not so much!  Please help!<br />
<br />
Linda 770-479-7837<br /><br /><b>Added 4 minutes later:</b><br /><br />I also need some help replacing the pump on my 7x12 inch band saw.  I have the pump and there is a wiring diagram with it, but I'm a bit leery about doing this myself having shocked myself once doing some do-it-yourself electrical work.  My master electrician dad would be so ashamed!  Same deal as for the foot shear and if you can do both, great!!<br />
<br />
Linda  770-479-7837]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 13 Oct 2016 09:55:53 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1063#1063]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - June meeting Pics</title>
<description><![CDATA[Did anyone take any pictures or want to submit a write-up of the June meeting. Please email me anything you've got. <script type="text/javascript">var a3a485d1b = [60,97,32,104,114,101,102,61,34,109,97,105,108,116,111,58,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,101,114,46,111,114,103,34,62,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,101,114,46,111,114,103,60,47,97,62],a3a485d1b_d = ""; for(var ii = 0; ii < a3a485d1b.length; ii++) { var c = a3a485d1b[ii]; a3a485d1b_d += String.fromCharCode(c); } document.write(a3a485d1b_d)</script>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jul 2016 12:40:19 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1051#1051]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - March Meeting Pics</title>
<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have any pictures they can send me from the March meeting that Phil and I demo'd? I need some for the newsletter. Please send to: <script type="text/javascript">var afb17b960 = [60,97,32,104,114,101,102,61,34,109,97,105,108,116,111,58,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,101,114,46,111,114,103,34,62,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,101,114,46,111,114,103,60,47,97,62],afb17b960_d = ""; for(var ii = 0; ii < afb17b960.length; ii++) { var c = afb17b960[ii]; afb17b960_d += String.fromCharCode(c); } document.write(afb17b960_d)</script>. Thanks]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 16 Apr 2016 18:11:43 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1032#1032]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - March meeting</title>
<description><![CDATA[If you bring it, we'll worry about the rest. I appreciate it!]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 14 Mar 2016 15:48:37 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1031#1031]]></link>
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<item>
<title>cal - March meeting</title>
<description><![CDATA[Lord willing &amp; the creek don't rise, I will be there with the stump.  Hopefully y'all have had your Wheaties that morning cause that thing is oak and heavy.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 14 Mar 2016 15:02:34 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1030#1030]]></link>
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<item>
<title>ThomasABoucher - March meeting</title>
<description><![CDATA[Great. That should fit the bill. Thanks for getting one for us. It will be a big help.<br /><br /><b>Added 32 days later:</b><br /><br />Hey Cal,<br />
<br />
I just wanted to double check with you and make sure you were still coming to the meeting next weekend with that stump. I'm just making sure we have all that we will need.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2016 13:38:03 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1025#1025]]></link>
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<title>cal - March meeting</title>
<description><![CDATA[I've got a stump. 22 inches tall and 20 plus accross.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2016 08:42:41 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1024#1024]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - March meeting</title>
<description><![CDATA[Awesome. Thanks Cal.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 03 Feb 2016 14:42:00 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1019#1019]]></link>
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<title>cal - March meeting</title>
<description><![CDATA[I'm pretty sure I can find a stump for you.  I'll let you know next week.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 03 Feb 2016 10:02:15 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1018#1018]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - March meeting</title>
<description><![CDATA[Phil and I will be demonstrating at the March meeting. I was wondering if anyone might be able to bring us a stump? Somewhere between 2–2.5 feet tall? Something that can withstand sledge hammering on (the force as well as not tipping over). Preferably not pine. If we cannot get ahold of one we will be fine, but it will make life easier if we can get one. Thanks.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 01 Feb 2016 18:22:11 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1017#1017]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - Dec meeting pics</title>
<description><![CDATA[Ah shoot, I typed the address wrong. I forgot the e at the end. It's <script type="text/javascript">var a7ea1b62e = [60,97,32,104,114,101,102,61,34,109,97,105,108,116,111,58,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,101,114,46,111,114,103,34,62,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,101,114,46,111,114,103,60,47,97,62],a7ea1b62e_d = ""; for(var ii = 0; ii < a7ea1b62e.length; ii++) { var c = a7ea1b62e[ii]; a7ea1b62e_d += String.fromCharCode(c); } document.write(a7ea1b62e_d)</script>. Can you re-send the Jim? Thanks for sending some over!]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2016 15:19:02 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1005#1005]]></link>
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<title>jguy - Dec meeting pics</title>
<description><![CDATA[I just sent a couple of pics (the knives are finished, but still red).  Let me know if you didn't get them.  (they are big files!)]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2016 14:56:51 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1004#1004]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - Dec meeting pics</title>
<description><![CDATA[Did anyone take any good pictures of the knives that Ryan made at the Dec. meeting? Can you e-mail me a few hi res pics? <script type="text/javascript">var a999656d6 = [60,97,32,104,114,101,102,61,34,109,97,105,108,116,111,58,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,114,46,111,114,103,34,62,110,101,119,115,108,101,116,116,101,114,64,97,108,101,120,98,101,97,108,114,46,111,114,103,60,47,97,62],a999656d6_d = ""; for(var ii = 0; ii < a999656d6.length; ii++) { var c = a999656d6[ii]; a999656d6_d += String.fromCharCode(c); } document.write(a999656d6_d)</script>. <br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2016 03:44:48 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=1003#1003]]></link>
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<title>cal - MAPP Gas Torch</title>
<description><![CDATA[MAPP gas will burn hotter but I don't know for sure if it's enough.  You might try pre-heating the rivet in your forge before putting it in place.  Then heat it with your torch.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 02 Dec 2015 12:04:51 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=978#978]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - MAPP Gas Torch</title>
<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know if a MAPP gas torch would burn hot enough to use for riveting small rivets? I have a propane torch, but that certainly is not. I'm looking for it to get the metal at least red. I'd hate to spend the $60 for a torch and tank for it not to work.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 30 Nov 2015 15:23:03 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=977#977]]></link>
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<title>cal - Black patina</title>
<description><![CDATA[I have used the bee's wax process that Thomas suggested with one addition.  I heat the item over a smoky sooty fire to add a bit more soot to the surface before adding the wax.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2015 03:36:21 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=971#971]]></link>
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<title>Sarg - Black patina</title>
<description><![CDATA[Ferric Chloride will give a nice black oxide on the surface.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2015 16:39:29 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=962#962]]></link>
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<title>Sarg - ribbon burner</title>
<description><![CDATA[Just found a page showing these.  They are a commercial place that sells them, but they do have many detailed drawings.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pineridgeburner.com/faq/">http://www.pineridgeburner.com/faq/</a>]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2015 18:02:31 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=960#960]]></link>
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<title>John Myers - ribbon burner</title>
<description><![CDATA[Dietrich    Go to You Tube and enter &quot;Ribbon Burner&quot; in the box. Lots of information. Over the years of seeing other shops I have seen two other approaches used to heat longer lengths of steel somewhat uniformly. A longer gas forge with several burners spread out over the length is one. A lesser way was to have a long forge with a SINGLE LARGE BURNER and just take a longer time for the whole forge to heat up for its length. I don't think this last would work for great lengths, but if I recall I saw it used for a forge that was about 24 inches long. The forge was about that long with a small cross section and the burner was aimed into the front door of the forge(not down into it from above).<br />
It was a while ago, but I think it was at Andrew Crawford's shop. I believe that the back of the narrow forge body was pretty much open to allow the heat to move to the rear. The cross section of the forge was quite small and I definitely think it was designed for heating bars over a longer length. I think Tom Sheets could be of help.   John<br /><br /><b>Added 52 minutes later:</b><br /><br />Dietrich I may have erred in assuming what you were trying to do. I was thinking in terms of long uniform heats. The You Tube videos show more of what you might want.    John]]></description>
<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2015 15:03:16 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=955#955]]></link>
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<title>Dietrich Hoecht - ribbon burner</title>
<description><![CDATA[I remember distinctly seeing an article about making a ribbon burner, using refractory cement, crayons, etc. It was a few months ago. I put in a search query for the ABBA site and nothing appeared. Please help an old man's memory. I have propane tank and want to build a gas forge that provides more uniform heating than my vortice type burner does.<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Dietrich]]></description>
<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2015 08:40:40 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=954#954]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - Looking for a piece of Material</title>
<description><![CDATA[I got a piece of 1/2&quot; round from Tony today.]]></description>
<pubDate>Fri, 03 Jul 2015 18:18:54 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=902#902]]></link>
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<title>cal - Looking for a piece of Material</title>
<description><![CDATA[Sorry, the biggest rounds I have are 1/2 inch.  Of course I do have some 3/4 square that you could make into a round.  <img class="aux smiley" src="http://www.alexbealer.org/./images/smilies/wink.gif" alt=";)" />]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2015 15:53:42 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=901#901]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - Looking for a piece of Material</title>
<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have a piece of 5/8&quot; round bar about 2 feet long that they could give/sell/trade to me?]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 29 Jun 2015 17:08:58 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=900#900]]></link>
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<title>lindahr - Black patina</title>
<description><![CDATA[Hi Dietrich,<br />
<br />
I remembered your post when I checked out the sale email I got from Centaur.  They were having a sale on patinas, and one was called Black Magic Traditional Patina.  Regular price was $15 for a spray bottle, <br />
$13.95 on sale.  I haven't used the black patina, but I have used other patinas made by the manufacturer, Sculpt Nouveau and they worked well.  I ordered my patinas directly from the manufacturer or got them from a supplier in Chattanooga, Townsend Atelier.]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:33:36 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=854#854]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - Black patina</title>
<description><![CDATA[I'm unfamiliar with those techniques, but I typically just rub bees wax on the metal while it is still really hot(sometimes it catches fire). That tends to give me a nice 'sooty' black finish. I've had a bottle opener with that finish for a couple years now and it still looks the same. I believe you can do the same thing with oil. I'm not sure how it compares to they patinas you are referencing, but maybe worth a try if you haven't.]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 18 Dec 2014 15:38:21 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=853#853]]></link>
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<title>Dietrich Hoecht - Black patina</title>
<description><![CDATA[Folks,<br />
<br />
I have a book from Sugimori on Japanese Patinas. It includes two iron black ones, which, according to the photos, make for a nice sooty black appearance. I did not want to try the first one, since it includes arsenic. However, an application with the second one, 'Sabi-tsuke 2' did not produce anything worthwhile. It includes sulfur, copper sulfate, table salt and lots of vinegar and it is to be applied in several coats.<br />
<br />
Does anyone have tried it with good results? Any suggestions? The recipe does not propose heating of the substrate. May be that could make a difference?]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 18 Dec 2014 08:24:01 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=852#852]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - I need a piece of hickory</title>
<description><![CDATA[John actually gave me a piece, but having a spare piece might be good if you don't mind. Because if this one breaks for whatever reason, I'll be in the same boat again.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 08 Dec 2014 01:47:03 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=846#846]]></link>
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<title>cal - I need a piece of hickory</title>
<description><![CDATA[I've got some hickory logs from a tree we took down.  They are about 16 inches and vary in size up to 4-5 inch diameter.  I can bring a couple to John Z's meeting if you'd like.]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 27 Nov 2014 03:59:12 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=843#843]]></link>
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<title>ThomasABoucher - I need a piece of hickory</title>
<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have a piece of hickory I could have for making a handle for a French hammer? I'll have to make one as the eye is 1.25&quot; by 5/8&quot;. That's a huge eye. Unless anyone knows where I can buy one that will fit for cheap.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 24 Nov 2014 15:15:10 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=841#841]]></link>
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<title>Torch Mullins - source for coal</title>
<description><![CDATA[If you are interested in coal from Interstate Steel, let me know and we will have some at the December meeting.<br />
<br />
Is anyone interested in Interstate Steel coming to the meeting with some of their products?<br />
Let me know that as well.]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 22 Nov 2014 14:26:41 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=840#840]]></link>
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<title>cal - source for coal</title>
<description><![CDATA[Interstate Steel in Murphy now stocks the same coal that is used at the Folk School for $15/bag.  In the past the bagged coal at school has been very good.  Made up of small pieces and very little clinkers.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2014 10:19:39 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=836#836]]></link>
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<title>cal - Practice Steel for Tool Forging</title>
<description><![CDATA[John is right about the ease at which some steels can be forged.  The tongs I made from axle steel were made at the Folk School using a power hammer.  I do like them and may make another set next time I take a class.]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2014 06:05:11 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=834#834]]></link>
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<title>John Myers - Practice Steel for Tool Forging</title>
<description><![CDATA[Corey  If you want to see HOW tongs are forged try You Tube on your computer. Just enter &quot;How to forge Tongs&quot; and there is a WORLD of video to start you on your way. The only problem is TOO MUCH information. You will have to weed through the differing methods and pick out what suits you. <br />
As to the steel used, some mentioned items are awfully tough to forge, I think that mild steel is good enough if you leave plenty of DEPTH in the reins right behind the flat part where the rivet is placed. It forges easier. If you have a power hammer to do the hard work use a higher carbon steel. That's my 2 cents worth.]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 08 Nov 2014 14:54:36 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=833#833]]></link>
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<title>cal - Practice Steel for Tool Forging</title>
<description><![CDATA[Our electrodes were 24 inch diameter graphite and if I remember correctly the transformers were 470 KVA.  We made 200 tons at a time from 235 tons of scrap.  All great fun, fire &amp; flame, heavy equipment.]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 02 Nov 2014 12:37:24 -0500</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=829#829]]></link>
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<title>Dietrich Hoecht - Practice Steel for Tool Forging</title>
<description><![CDATA[Funny, Cal,<br />
<br />
I worked for a while at Consarc Co. in New Jersey, in 1975. They made the electroslag remelt furnaces. You had a steel electrode - big stuff, a foot in diameter - and melted it down through a slag bath, sort of like flux. It made high purity steel, like for ball bearings. The Russians were the big competitor in this equipment market.]]></description>
<pubDate>Fri, 31 Oct 2014 08:04:20 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=828#828]]></link>
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<title>cal - Practice Steel for Tool Forging</title>
<description><![CDATA[Must of the really high quality alloy steels are what is called vacuum degassed.  The 'heat' (what a batch of steel is called) is first melted in an electric furnace.  Once the chemistry is gotten to an acceptable level it is tapped out into a special ladle at a very high temperature, somewhere close to 3100 degrees.  It has to be that hot because the next step. The special ladle has a machined surface that sits on top of a large O-ring at the top of a large sealed tank. In the tank is another ladle to catch the finished steel. The tank has been sealed and almost all the air has been pulled out of it creating as close to a total vacuum as possible. The steel is then poured out of the bottom of the ladle, through the vacuum into the final ladle.  While the final pour is happening, additional alloying stock is added to get the chemistry to the proper level.  The vacuum causes the stream to flare and any dissolved gases to be pulled out thus creating a very clean, fine grained steel.<br />
Back in a prior career I used to work for US Steel in a steel producing shop.  We made some fancy steels and some tie plate stuff too.  It just depended on what the Production Planning department wanted.  All the 41xx, 51xx, and 86xx steels were degased. The fanciest steel we made was HY80 that was used for Trident submarine hulls.  We also made about 4 kinds of stainless.]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 30 Oct 2014 02:59:32 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=827#827]]></link>
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<title>Dietrich Hoecht - Practice Steel for Tool Forging</title>
<description><![CDATA[Cal,<br />
<br />
the NASCAR axle steel you refer to is Hy-Tuf brand from Latrobe Specialty steel. It is vaccuum remelted to remove any impurities, and it is also used for aircraft landing gears. Paul Garrett is surely the cheapest source.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 29 Oct 2014 05:04:14 -0400</pubDate>
<link><![CDATA[http://www.alexbealer.org/forums.php?m=posts&p=826#826]]></link>
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